Asakusa Temple Over The Years

There’s a good chance that if you ever visited Tokyo, you’ve been to this place:

The kaminari-mon gate (雷門), taken in 2022
Same place, taken in 2009

This place is Asakusa Temple, or in Japanese Asakusa-dera, though more formally known as Sensōji. The Chinese characters 浅草寺 can be read either way. This is a temple formerly of the Tendai sect that has been a part of Tokyo since at least the 9th century and is centered around a statue of the Bodhisattva Kannon said to have washed up on the shore one day. The homepage (English available) is here.

Asakusa Temple is simultaneously a giant tourist-trap and a great experience. I have visited the temple 3-4 times since 2009 and it is always worth it. I have included photos from various trips below.

The first thing people will see is the famous Kaminari-mon Gate (雷門, “the lightning gate”) with its massive red lantern, flanked by two guardian Buddhist deities, the Niō. If you pass through the gate, or on your way out, you may notice the reverse:

Taken in 2009

The lantern on the back instead reads Fūraijinmon (風雷神門) or the Gate of the Wind and Thunder god.

Me carrying a very tired little boy in the summer of 2014.

Once you pass through the gate, you will see a huge, long walkway: the Nakamise-dōri (中店通り):

December 2022
Summer of 2016
2009, just after New Year

This is not the temple proper. This is a large number of very crowded street stalls selling all kinds of wares: some focused on foreign tourists, and some focused more on native Japanese visitors. You can find all kinds of things here. In our most recent trip, we found some excellent shichimi spice with yuzu flavor added. Goes really well in soups. You can probably spend half a day here. Just beyond these shops, to the left and right, are various restaurants, against catered toward either native Japanese or foreign tourists. We ate at this place during our last trip:

In any case, once you go all the way past the shops, you can get to the temple proper:

Pagoda and temple gate, December 2022
Temple gate, December 2022
Pagoda, 2009 New Year’s

This tall structure is a pagoda:

A pagoda, or gojū no tō (五重塔) in Japanese, is something adapted from Chinese culture and is meant to represent the ancient Buddhist stupas in India: storehouses for relics of the Buddha.

The temple gate itself, called the Hōzōmon (宝蔵門, “treasure [of the Dharma] storehouse gate”) sports a similarly large red lantern:

Me being a tourist in December 2022
Summer of 2016

Past this second gate you are now at the temple proper. There is a large, outdoor charcoal brazier with incense sticks burning here. Per Buddhist tradition, you can purify yourself (ablution) before seeing the Bodhisattva by waving some of the incense smoke over you. Once ready, you then proceed to the main hall (honden 本殿):

December 2022
January 2009

If you look up as you pass this lamp, you’ll also see the underside has a neat dragon pattern on it:

Since the temple itself is devoted to the Bodhisattva Kannon, you will see it enshrined at the central altar:

December 2022
January 2009

The statue itself is hidden behind the red screen, but is flanked by two other statues denoting the Indian gods Brahma and Indra as guardians. Also, if you pay attention, you’ll notice this mark both on the red screen and above:

This is the Sanskrit letter “sa” written in old Siddham script as 𑖭, and is used to represent Kannon. It also represents the Sanskrit word satya (“truth, virtue, etc”). There is also a really large grilled wooden box in front, and that is where you can put in a donation. Per tradition, people often put in a ¥5 yen coin (go-en-dama) due to word-play that implies fostering a karmic-bond with the bodhisattva.

Note that if you go left of the main hall, there’s several other things to note. First is the koi pond and bridge:

January 2009
January 2009

There’s also a place here where you can draw your fortune (omikuji). This year, I drew a bad fortune (凶 on the upper left):

Per tradition, if you get a bad fortune, you’re supposed to tie it up on a small wire fence nearby, so the bad luck “stays there”, and does not follow you.

There is also a statue of Amitabha Buddha (阿弥陀如来, amida nyorai) nearby:

December 2022
Summer 2016

Finally, to the left of the main hall is one of several secondaries halls that compromise the temple complex. This hall is called the Yogodo Hall:

It is here that I got my pilgrimage book in 2022:

The Yogodo Hall is a commemorative hall to mark the 1,200th anniversary of the Tendai monk Ennin, who was a pivotal figure in the early Japanese Tendai tradition, and still crucial to the growth and development of the tradition. Side note, the term yōgō (影向) is a Buddhist term of the temporary manifestation of a Buddha or Bodhisattva or other divinity in the world for the benefit of beings. This is probably meant to be a form of praise to Ennin, implying that he had been a temporary manifestation of a Buddhist figure.

There are several other halls I’ve managed to overlook each time I visit, but a full map of the site in English can be found here.

In any case, it’s interesting to look back on my old photos and reflect on how much has changed (phone camera technology, for example 😉 ), and how much has remained the same at Sensoji…

Chanting the Heart Sutra

This is a photo from a sutra book I frequently use for daily services. I bought this book years ago from the temple of Sensoji (a.k.a. Asakusa Temple) in Tokyo, Japan, a place that I have visited many times over the years.

A photo I took in 2016 of the famous market of nakamise-dōri. The actual temple is way in the back.
The temple just after New Year’s, taken in 2009.
Me carrying one tired little boy at the iconic kaminari-mon gate in 2016. Note the giant red lantern in the back.

It is still one of my favorite temples, even if a bit touristy, and of the Buddhist sutra books I own this is still one of my favorite to use.1 This sutra book uses the traditional Classical Chinese with Japanese pronunciation guides (furigana), which is pretty typical of Japanese-Buddhist sutra books. As you can see, it’s not a long sutra to recite. It is probably the shortest sutra in the entire Buddhist canon.

Chanting the Heart Sutra is something many Buddhists in the Mahayana tradition (everything you see from Tibet to Japan, and overseas) do both in group services and in home services. People chant it in many languages and styles. Its simplicity, and general message about the nature of reality means that it tends to cut across sectarian lines and is popular in many sects and communities. Its cryptic and profound nature also means that for a one-page sutra it is the subject of intense study and research.

The sutra, for reference, is shown below. I used the standard Japanese liturgical form, recited in Zen temples, Tendai temples, Shingon temples, and so on, with only very minor differences per tradition. However, there are many ways and languages to recite the Heart Sutra.

Original ChineseRomanizationTranslation by
Lapis Lazuli Texts
摩訶般若波羅蜜多心経Ma ka han-nya ha ra mi ta shin gyoThe Heart of the Perfection of Wisdom Sutra
観自在菩薩行深般若波羅蜜多時。kan ji zai bo satsu gyo jin han nya ha ra mi ta ji When Avalokiteśvara Bodhisattva was practicing the profound Prajñāpāramitā,
照見五蘊皆空。sho ken go un kai ku he illuminated the Five Skandhas and saw that they were all empty,
度一切苦厄。do is-sai ku yakuand crossed over all suffering and affliction.
舎利子。色不異空。sha ri shi shiki fu i ku Śāriputra, form is not different from emptiness, and
空不異色。ku fu i shiki emptiness is not different from form.
色即是空。shiki zoku ze ku Form itself is emptiness, and
空即是色。ku zoku ze shiki emptiness itself is form.
受想行識亦復如是。ju so gyo shiki yaku bu nyo zeSensation, conception, synthesis, and discrimination are also such as this.
舎利子。是諸法空相。sha ri shi ze sho ho ku so Śāriputra, all dharmas are empty:
不生不滅。fu sho fu metsu they are neither created nor destroyed,
不垢不浄。fu ku fu jo neither defiled nor pure,
不増不減。fu zo fu genand they neither increase nor diminish.
是故空中。ze ko ku chu This is because in emptiness
無色無受想行識。mu shiki mu ju so gyo shiki there is no form, sensation, conception, synthesis, or discrimination.
無眼耳鼻舌身意。mu gen-ni bi zes-shin iThere are no eyes, ears, nose, tongue, body, or thoughts.
無色声香味触法。mu shiki sho ko mi soku ho There are no forms, sounds, scents, tastes, sensations, or dharmas.
無眼界。mu gen kai There is no field of vision and
乃至無意識界。nai shi mu i shiki kai there is no realm of thoughts.
無無明。mu mu myo There is no ignorance
亦無無明尽。yaku mu mu myo jinnor elimination of ignorance,
乃至無老死。nai shi mu ro shi even up to and including no old age and death,
亦無老死尽。yaku mu ro shi jin nor elimination of old age and death.
無苦集滅道。mu ku shu metsu do There is no suffering, its accumulation, its elimination, or a path.
無智亦無得。mu chi yaku mu tokuThere is no understanding and no attaining.
以無所得故。i mu sho tok-ko Because there is no attainment,
菩提薩埵。依般若波羅蜜多故。bo dai sat-ta e han nya ha ra mi ta ko bodhisattvas rely on Prajñāpāramitā,
心無罜礙。shin mu kei geand their minds have no obstructions.
無罜礙故。mu kei ge ko Since there are no obstructions,
無有恐怖。mu u ku fu they have no fears.
遠離一切顛倒夢想。on ri is-sai ten do mu so Because they are detached from backwards dream-thinking,
究竟涅槃。ku gyo ne hantheir final result is Nirvāṇa.
三世諸仏。san ze sho butsu Because all buddhas of the past, present, and future
依般若波羅蜜多故。e han nya ha ra mi ta ko rely on Prajñāpāramitā,
得阿耨多羅三藐三菩提。toku a noku ta ra sam myaku san bo daithey attain Anuttarā Samyaksaṃbodhi.
故知。般若波羅蜜多。ko chi han nya ha ra mi ta Therefore, know that Prajñāpāramitā
是大神呪。是大明呪。ze dai jin shu ze dai myo shu is a great spiritual mantra, a great brilliant mantra,
是無上呪。是無等等呪。ze mu jo shu ze mu to do shu an unsurpassed mantra, and an unequalled mantra.
能除一切苦。真実不虚故。説般若波羅蜜多呪。no jo is-sai ku shin jitsu fu ko ko setsu han nya ha ra mi ta shuThe Prajñāpāramitā Mantra is spoken because it can truly remove all afflictions.
即説呪曰。soku setsu shu watsu: The mantra is spoken thusly:
羯諦羯諦波羅羯諦波羅僧羯諦菩提薩婆訶。gya tei gya tei ha ra gya tei hara so gya tei bo ji so wa ka gate gate pāragate pārasaṃgate bodhi svāhā3
般若心経han nya shin gyoThe Heart Sutra

You can see a really nice example of this chanted here, courtesy of Koyasan Temple in Japan:

I have been reading Tanahashi’s book about the Heart Sutra and learning a lot about its various interpretations, how it’s conveyed in various languages, and various theories about its origin. I was fascinated to learn that there is a Mongolian version sometimes transcribed in Cyrillic. None of this is strictly necessary for the purposes of Buddhist practice, but it is fascinating. The example I showed above uses what’s called “Sino-Japanese”: Japanese pronunciation of the original Chinese characters it was composed with.2

As for chanting the sutra, I’ve been doing it for years, so I can more or less recite the Sino-Japanese version from memory, and am pretty comfortable doing it that way. I study the meaning of the sutra in English of course. I also have a PDF file for chanting in Sino-Japanese available for those interested.

I have also attended Zen centers on rare occasions (I tend to lean toward Pure Land Buddhism, to be honest) and seen the Heart Sutra recited using English. Learning the English meaning is very useful, but English chanting sounds a bit awkward to me. So, I prefer chanting in the original, and study the meaning separately.

But regardless of what language you use, the Heart Sutra, like all Buddhist sutras, has a funny tendency to gradually “sink in” over time. The meaning may not make much sense at first, but over the course of months and years, it takes on new meaning as you go through life, and see the sutra in a new light. I believe that’s the real value of Buddhist chanting: to internalize key Buddhist teachings in a way that you can carry with you throughout life.

As for me, these days, I tend to recite a Tendai-style home service,4 and as part of that I rotate between chanting this and a certain, small excerpt of the Immeasurable Life Sutra called the shiseige (四誓偈) or juseige (重誓偈) in Japanese Buddhism. When I finish one, I put it under the other sutra book, so I don’t forget which sutra to recite next time as I might go a week or two before reciting again. As a short, traditional liturgy, I am pretty content.

As with any Buddhist practice done over a long period of time, I believe that it gradually polishes the mind, and dispels one self-centered viewpoint. It’s super simple to do, but its benefits last a lifetime. To paraphrase Nichiren, when dying cloth in indigo, the more you do it, the deeper the color becomes.

Namu Amida Butsu
Namu Kanzeon Bosatsu

Edit: I discovered in May 2025 some egregious mistakes in the formatting of the sutra above. This was not a problem with the translation, but with mistakes in how I copy-pasted into the blog post. I have since corrected these mistakes. Apologies to anyone who used the flawed copy of the sutra.

P.S. It’s tempting for some to look for an original “Sanskrit” version of the sutra, but alas, the best we know today is that the sutra was compiled originally in China, using excerpts from the much, much larger Prajña-paramita sutras. The story of how exactly that came to be is a much-discussed subject in Tanahashi’s book.

P.P.S. Fun fact: the version of the Heart Sutra used in Japan differs very slightly from the popular version attributed to Xuanzang. The Japanese version, popularized by the Shingon esoteric tradition, is called the rufubon (流布本) version. It has two extra Chinese characters (262 total) from Xuanzang’s 260, and uses slightly different characters for pronouncing the mantra at the end: 揭諦 instead of original 揭帝 for Sanskrit gaté.

1 Because it is devoted to Kannon Bodhisattva, this sutra book also includes (left in photo) a certain Japanese-Buddhist verse called the Jikku Kannon-gyō (十句観音経, “ten verse Kannon sutra”) popularized in the middle ages. I made a post here about it.

A nice explanation of the meaning and history of the ten-verse sutra can be found here.

2 It’s sometimes assumed that the sutra’s earliest composition was in a language like Sanskrit or something else from India, but research has long since proven that the Heart Sutra was a Chinese innovation, a summary of the much longer Perfection Wisdom Sutras, distilled into a very compact, chantable essence. The monk Xuan-zang later brought it back to India, where it later came to Tibet. Pretty clever actually.

3 I decided to leave the Sanskrit mantra untranslated, per esoteric-Buddhist tradition.

4 I like the Tendai approach to Buddhism because it encompasses all the things that are important to me, but avoiding a narrow, dogmatic approach that I found in the past and ultimately rejected.